All products are independently selected by our editors. If you buy something, we may earn an affiliate commission.
Fancy skin care is a singular pleasure. Spreading a luxe peptide serum, for instance, on your regular-person face might be the highlight of your day—even when you’re not exactly sure what those fancy skin-care ingredients do.
As one of those fancy ingredients, peptides tend to be inexpensive products—even by high-end skin-care standards. So why do companies charge such a premium for peptide serums and creams? Are they really that good?
It’s complicated. On one hand, peptides are one of the few trendy ingredients that scientists and dermatologists agree can really do something to combat the signs of aging, like fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin. On the other, brands make lofty claims about their peptide-containing products that may or may not fully match up with what we know about them.
What is a peptide?
Peptides are molecules made up of relatively short chains of amino acids. Although they have a variety of uses in biochemical processes, they’re most often called the building blocks of proteins because, well, they’re what proteins are made of. If you think of a single protein molecule as a completed Lego Millennium Falcon, peptides are the individual blocks and amino acids are the actual plastic.
In the context of skin care, proteins almost always refers to collagen, the protein that gives your skin its structure. As we get older the collagen proteins in our skin break down, contributing to everything from wrinkles to a lack of elasticity. Most peptide-containing products aim to either increase the amount of collagen your cells produce or decrease the amount of it that gets broken down, with the ultimate goal being smoother, plumper, healthier skin.
What do peptides do?
All peptide products aim to deliver similar benefits, but different peptides have different functions. “Basically, as we age, we’re hoping to keep our skin thick,” Mary L. Stevenson, MD, assistant professor in the Ronald O. Perelman Department of Dermatology at NYU Langone Health, tells SELF. “To do this you need to clear away cellular debris and breakdown products [from collagen breakdown] and stimulate the production of more collagen.” Peptides can do both of those jobs, but individual peptides may do this in different ways.
Peptides in ingredient lists
So the specific way a product works depends on the individual peptides it contains. But figuring out which peptides a product contains can be confusing. Some products with peptide right in the name don’t list specific peptides in the ingredients—like this extremely expensive Tata Harper cream, which contains hydrolyzed avocado protein but nothing else even remotely peptide-adjacent. Other products that do contain peptides may list them simply as peptides or oligopeptides, often followed by a number. (By the way, the prefix oligo literally means “few” and usually refers to peptides with 20 amino acids or fewer—which covers pretty much every peptide used in cosmetics.)
Types of peptides
You don’t need to memorize the names of every peptide you might see on an ingredients list, but knowing roughly which kinds are out there can be very helpful when choosing a product. Most literature reviews of the function and efficacy of cosmetic peptides recognize five different categories based on how they’re proposed to work.
Signaling peptides
By far the most commonly used cosmetic peptides, products containing these ingredients claim to maximize the amount of collagen in your skin. “Signaling peptides have different ways of [doing this],” Noelani González, MD, director of cosmetic dermatology at Mount Sinai West, tells SELF. “Procollagen segments can actually stimulate collagen production, but they can also signal skin [cells] that enough collagen has been broken down,” thus preventing your body from breaking down any more.
Whether they’re actually helping make more collagen or just helping the skin hold onto what you’ve got, it’s easy to see why signaling peptides are everywhere in skin care right now. There are a lot of them too. Here are just a few you might see on a label:
- Carnosine and N-acetylcarnosine
- Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2
- Most palmitoyl tripeptides and palmitoyl hexapeptides
- Most tetrapeptides, including tetrapeptide-21 and tetrapeptide TKEK
- Most hexapeptides, including hexapeptide-11 and hexapeptide-14
Carrier peptides
These are probably the second most popular skin-care peptides. “Carrier peptides hook up to another ingredient to facilitate its delivery [to skin cells],” Dr. González explains. “The most common ingredient is copper, which helps with wound healing.” Most products simply list copper peptides on the ingredients, but some products also use manganese carrier peptides in the form of manganese tripeptide-1.
Neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides
Neurotransmitter inhibitors, which are less common than signaling and carrier peptides, may decrease the appearance of fine lines by blocking the release of acetylcholine—a neurotransmitter heavily involved in muscle contractions. Yes, these peptides are supposed to literally relax your facial muscles. These are the main peptides in this class:
- Acetylhexapeptide-3
- Pentapeptides, including pentapeptide-3 and pentapeptide-18
- Tripeptide-3
Enzyme inhibitor peptides
Like neurotransmitter inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors interfere with the activity of chemicals involved in a specific aging-related process. In this case, they’re inhibiting enzymes that mediate the breakdown of collagen and other skin proteins. In theory, this helps stave off collagen loss. The most common types are soybean peptides, silk fibroin peptides, and rice peptides.
Structural or keratin peptides
Structural peptides are unique in that they specifically target dehydration and dryness. They’re usually derived from keratin—a protein that gives hair and nails their structure, among other things—and seem to work by improving skin barrier function, allowing it to retain more water and give the skin a plumper look. If you see these at all, they’ll likely be listed as keratin peptides or maybe wool lipids, since sheep’s wool is the most common source of keratin in this case.
Research claims about peptide benefits in skin-care products
Peptides have been studied for so long in so many different medical contexts that we actually know a good deal about how peptides work—just not always in the way you’d want. Most of the experimental data we have on peptides come from in vitro experiments, like cell cultures looking at the expression of certain proteins or studies done on artificial silicone skin. Often these studies don’t directly apply to cosmetics or skin-care products but are taken as evidence anyway.
For example, copper peptides have in fact been shown to improve wound healing, which is partially why people started putting them in cosmetics. But, as Dr. González explains, those results may not transfer to skin-care benefits: “Wounded and healthy skin have different topographies, so we don’t know if [copper peptides] work the same on healthy skin,” she says. Several studies ended up finding that cosmetics containing copper peptides do promote smoother, healthier skin, but it’s still not clear if the same wound-healing mechanism is responsible for those results.
There are some peer-reviewed studies that test the efficacy of peptide products on actual human skin, and the results suggest that peptides seem to actually work. However, these aren’t the huge, double-blind clinical studies we’d all love to see—and they’re usually carried out by skin-care and pharmaceutical companies. According to Dr. González, this in itself isn’t automatically concerning: “Skin-care companies do good studies sometimes,” she says, but the studies still aren’t usually large enough to draw any huge conclusions. (The largest study we encountered was this 93-person experiment from 2005. Most had 15 to 40 participants.)
Claims around peptide serums are not FDA-regulated
From a consumer perspective, the most important thing to understand about peptides is that as with most skin-care products, they’re “cosmeceuticals.” This is not an FDA-regulated classification; it’s a marketing term that implies a cosmetic product has “medicinal or drug-like qualities.” (And those qualities may be used to justify higher prices.) But cosmeceuticals are not drugs—at least, not according to the FDA.
As long as they don’t claim to cure a disease or alter the structure of your skin, peptides aren’t subject to the same FDA regulations as, for example, retinoids, salicylic acid, or benzoyl peroxide. This also means that peptides haven’t been studied as extensively as drugs, SELF explained previously, so we don’t know as much about how they work.
Usually when people hear “cosmetic regulations,” they immediately picture, like, an eyeshadow palette crammed with illegal or irritating ingredients. But contamination isn’t typically the issue with cosmeceuticals. Instead the problem is how they’re labeled. When you buy a product that contains an actual drug, the label must list its concentration and the specific form used in the product. The same is not true of cosmetics—and therefore cosmeceuticals—no matter how scientific the product or its claims sound. There’s generally no way to know the concentration of peptides in a moisturizer, and in some cases it might not even be obvious which ones are in there.
Still, dermatologists love ’em.
Given the amount of favorable evidence out there, it’s not surprising that experts were pretty pro-peptides. “Having reviewed the literature, and also anecdotally in my own practice, I think they do promote thicker skin,” says Dr. Stevenson, who uses a peptide product in her routine. But she recognizes that peptide products are expensive and might not be as splurge-worthy as other options that definitely work: “Anyone who’s putting down a reasonable amount of money on [antiaging skin care] should prioritize lasers and neurotoxins (a.k.a. Botox)—and a good relationship with a dermatologist.”
Peptides vs Retinol
Okay, so peptide creams can’t match the wrinkle-busting power of Botox and lasers. But what about retinoids, the other gold standard in collagen regeneration?
Here’s where it gets fuzzy. Although they seem to work in similar ways, we know way less about peptides than we do about retinoids, and there aren’t many studies comparing them directly. (One small study found copper peptides to be comparable to tretinoin.) Based on their experiences with patients, Dr. Stevenson and Dr. González agree that peptides seem to be less irritating than retinoids, which may make them a good antiaging choice for people with sensitive skin. But if you already use and get antiaging benefits from a retinoid, you don’t necessarily need to try peptides.
If you want, though, you can use them at the same time. “There’s no issue using peptides and retinoids simultaneously,” Dr. Stevenson says. “Just be sure to introduce one product at a time: Use one for two weeks on its own, then introduce the other.”
Overall, peptides are a surprisingly evidence-supported ingredient that could make a difference in your skin—they just shouldn’t be your only strategy for fighting the signs of aging. “Retinoids, AHAs, and sunscreen should be the bulk of your skin-care go-to's because they’ve been thoroughly tested and used for years. We know they work.” Dr. González says. “But peptides are great little extras.”
The best peptide serums and creams
If you’re ready to take the plunge on a peptide serum or cream, check out these products. These are all recommended by the experts we spoke to or meet their criteria for a peptide skin-care product worth trying, meaning it lists the actual peptides in the product and has them fairly high up in the ingredients list.
Elta MD PM Therapy Facial Moisturizer
1
Elta MD PM Therapy Facial Moisturizer
This nighttime moisturizer from derm-favorite brand EltaMD contains peptides as well as niacinamide, a B vitamin that can brighten skin.
Revision Skincare DEJ Eye Cream
2
Revision Skincare DEJ Eye Cream
One of Dr. González’s picks, this antiaging eye cream boasts multiple hydrating ingredients in addition to the peptides.
Paula’s Choice Peptide Booster
3
Paula’s Choice Peptide Booster
Thanks to its lightweight formula, you can use this peptide serum on its own or mix it into a face moisturizer or other serum to get the texture you prefer.
The Ordinary “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1%
4
The Ordinary “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1%
This lightweight serum contains copper peptides, which may help reduce inflammation as well as signs of aging.
CeraVe Skin-Renewing Night Cream
Amazon
5
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
In addition to peptides, CeraVe’s night cream contains skin barrier-protecting ceramides that combat dryness and fine lines. It has a thicker texture, as most night creams do, so it may not be ideal for acne-prone skin types.
Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 Night Serum
6
Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 Night Serum
This drugstore serum contains both retinol and peptides for the ultimate antiaging one-two punch.
Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Moisturizer
7
Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Moisturizer
This lightweight cream is one of the most well-known peptide products on the market.
PCA Skin Exlinea Pro Peptide Serum 1
Dermstore
8
PCA Skin Exlinea Pro Peptide Serum 1
PCA Skin’s products are like a dermatologist’s office in a bottle. This serum contains two peptides and an amino acid blend to target signs of aging.
Elemis Peptide4 Antioxidant Hydra-Serum
Amazon
9
Elemis Peptide4 Antioxidant Hydra-Serum
Elemis’s waterlike peptide serum relies on hyaluronic acid and antioxidants to provide additional hydration and protection.
Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Serum
10
Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Wrinkle Resist Serum
This serum, which can be used all over the face, neck, and eye area, boasts a high concentration of peptides.
Olay Wrinkle Correction Serum B3 +Peptides
11
Olay Serums Wrinkle Correction Serum B3 +Peptides
Another affordable pick, Olay’s peptide and niacinamide serum has excellent concentrations of peptides for a drugstore buy. Married with the brightening and soothing powers of niacinamide, this is a good option for folks dealing with dark spots.
The Inkey List Collagen Booster Firming Peptide Serum
Sephora
12
The Inkey List Collagen Booster Firming Peptide Serum
A slew of peptides are scattered throughout this peptide serum’s ingredients list, which intends to mimic the effects of natural collagen and make the skin appear more firm, bouncy, and bright.
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Firming Collagen Cream
Sephora
13
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Firming Collagen Cream
Especially great for sensitive skin types, First Aid Beauty’s rich cream is packed with soothing colloidal oatmeal, niacinamide, collagen, and peptides.
Neutrogena Rapid Firming Peptide Contour Lift Face Cream
Amazon
14
Neutrogena Rapid Firming Peptide Contour Lift Face Cream
This peptide cream is formulated with 0.4% peptides, plus gluconolactone, a PHA (polyhydroxy acid) that is a gentle enough exfoliant for sensitive skin.
Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream
Sephora
15
Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream
This nourishing cream for normal, dry, and aging skin has 3% peptides to protect skin from environmental damage and support the skin barrier. It’s formulated with moisturizers like shea butter and glycerin for extra hydration.
Kiehl’s Since 1851 Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum
Nordstrom
16
Kiehl's Since 1851 Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum
Remember when we said it’s cool to use both retinol and peptides at the same time? Here's a product that does just that. The Kiehl’s retinol serum combines those two antiaging hero ingredients, plus protective ceramides and brightening niacinamide. It’s potent, so be sure to use it sparingly until your skin builds tolerance.
Skinmedica TNS Advanced+ Serum
Dermstore
17
Skinmedica TNS Advanced+ Serum
If you know your way around skin-care products and are looking to beef up your skin-care routine with a true luxury peptide product, Skinmedica's TNS Advanced+ Serum is a solid option for all skin types. Beyond a powerhouse peptide complex, the serum is formulated with botanicals and algae to support collagen and elastin production.
Then I Met You Calming Tide Gel Cream
Soko Glam
18
Then I Met You Calming Tide Gel Cream
Packaged in a unique pebble-shaped bottle, this creamy gel moisturizer contains peptides as well as a calming Centella asiatica extract.
Clinique Pep-Start Eye Cream
Sephora
19
Clinique Pep-Start Eye Cream
If the cute, bright packaging on this morning eye cream doesn’t wake you up enough, the peptides and moisturizing ingredients definitely will.
Ourself Daily Dark Spot Intercept
Ourself
20
Ourself Daily Dark Spot Intercept
Buzzy brand Ourself includes its patent-pending Intides (a pair of peptides that tackle hyperpigmentation) in its creams and serums. The Daily Dark Spot Intercept is also formulated with vitamin C and niacinamide, two other brightening ingredients that derms recommend for a more even skin tone.
Good Molecules Super Peptide Serum
Ulta
21
Good Molecules Super Peptide Serum
Here’s a serum from Good Molecules that’s surprisingly budget friendly. Because of its affordability, the peptides are in lower concentrations than in other products, but this could be an excellent product to try if you’re just dabbling in the world of peptides.
Neocutis Bio Serum Firm Rejuvenating Growth Factor and Peptide Treatment
Dermstore
22
Neocutis Bio Serum Firm Rejuvenating Growth Factor and Peptide Treatment
This top-rated serum from the beloved brand Neocutis is packed with three peptides plus human growth factors, which stimulate skin cell production. You’ll also find sodium hyaluronate, which makes your skin feel bouncy and hydrated.
Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum
Ulta
23
Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum
If you’re looking for a serum formulation of Drunk Elephant’s peptide cream, you're in luck. The Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum is formulated with 11 signal peptides to make the skin firmer over time, plus lactic acid, an AHA that derms recommend for gentle exfoliation.
Jordan Samuel Skin the Performance Cream
24
Jordan Samuel Skin the Performance Cream
This peptide moisturizer contains squalane as well as calming green tea and chamomile extracts.
Alastin Skincare Regenerating Skin Nectar
25
Alastin Skincare Regenerating Skin Nectar
This pricey serum is a dermatologist’s go-to thanks to the proprietary peptide-enriched formula.